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Pemba is the second largest island of the
Spice Archipelago, named Al-khudra, "the Green Island"
by the Arabic mariners in reverence of the profusion of lush
fertility they encountered after their journey south along the
arid coastline. Delighted by their welcome, these same mariners
founded a city at Ras Mkumbuu, possibly the oldest permanent
settlement south of Lamu. Pemba rises from the Indian Ocean on
its own granite pedestal, a continental landmass in itself,
topped with verdant hillscapes that tumble through clove
plantations to the signatory, pristine white beaches. The reefs
and channels make for East Africa's finest diving and highly
rated game fishing, whilst the Pembans themselves embody the
coastal Swahili in their dignity of manner and refinement of
welcome.
Pemba can be reached by air either from
Unguja (Zanzibar Island) or from the mainland cities of Dar es
Salaam or Tanga. Local air charter companies run daily flights
most days of the week. The airport is named after Abedi Amani
Karume, the first African President of the Peoples’ Republic of
Zanzibar, who went on to become the Vice President of Tanzania
after Tanganyika and Zanzibar were united in 1964. The airlines
that fly to Pemba include Zanair, Tropical Air and Coastal
Aviation, apart from some chartered flights.
The journey, by ship between Zanzibar and
Pemba can take between 3 and 6 hours depending on the company
used. The only mainland city to travel to Pemba by sea is Dar es
Salaam with a service running 3 times a week via Zanzibar.
Nearly all passenger ships coming into Pemba arrive at the town
of Mkoani, on the southwestern end of Pemba Island. Very few
ships or dhows actually make use Chake Chake as point of
destination or departure as the old harbour is silted up and
only canoes can actually gain entrance!
The island offers an incredible mix of
thrilling drift dives, marine walls and large reserves of
pelagic life. Pristine reefs and dramatic vertical coral cliffs
of more than 800 metres are the defining feature of many dive
sites along the west coast. Coral gardens, sponges and sea fans
cover these marine cliffs, which often stretch as far as the eye
can see and host a fascinating array of colourful reef fish.
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